Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Thailand. Show all posts

August 6, 2018

Farewell BKK

     From Vientiane we took a cheap local bus (#14) to the Friendship Bridge border crossing over the Mekong into Thailand.  A 2nd bus carries you over the bridge in between checking out/in of customs.  The process was easier than we expected after not finding much guidebook reference to this (cheap) way.  The Nong Khai train station is an easy walk from the Bridge drop off.  Cheap, generic, train station pad thai was such a treat.  

Our last night train.
We sprung for first class to Bangkok, which was actually the nicest train accommodation we've had (minus the free meals on Amtrak).  
Note to self: remember to try pano to capture an image of a small room.  I think that would do the trick!
We arrived at Hua Lamphong Station at 6:00 am.  8 hours too early to check into our hotel.  So we left the bags and set our bearings back towards good old Wat Pho with a detour to the amulet market.  Jeff eventually gave up on finding the Thai translation of "Maitreya" Buddha (which isn't really a big thing here) so we left the trip without any large heavy statues.  Jeff had his final Wat Pho massage while the girls wandered once more around the grounds and dropped coins into the bowls behind The Reclining Buddha.  
THE BUDDHA IS STILL IN THE TREE.
     We had a free day to book one last tour or activity and were getting a little weary of research and planning at this point.  Jeff and I had toured the ancient capital of Ayutthaya in 2004 and decided to take the day trip again as a time filler.  With the kids, it is not worth a day, especially if you have already been to Angkor Wat. Even I was bored and regretted bringing the girls. If you do go - be prepared for temple dress-code etiquette.  So many Westerners rudely shrug off the covered shoulders requisite in favor of fashion and photogenic ambiance.  



Perhaps a floating market day trip would have been better than Ayutthaya. 
     We walked past Wat Ratchanatdaram several nights (and days) in search of dinner and ice cream.  One evening we thought we would try the pad thai pilgrimage to ThipSamai restaurant (LP rec) just south of this Wat, a mile walk from Khao San Road. When we arrived and saw the line down the block we knew it was not in our destiny.  However, we did happen upon an incredible fried chicken on a stick, a small joint famous for duck, and 3 scoops of ice cream for 30 baht ($1). 



On the very last day we packed in as many new modes of transportaion as we could!  First step, figure out how to get from Wat Ratchanatdaram area pier to a major shopping market (Pratanum). It turned out to be easy and cheap to use the klong boats through the canals.  After shopping we returned via the BTS SkyTrain, then the Orange Flag Chao Phraya river taxi back up to the Khao San Neighborhood.  
Keep it classy, Khao San!
     We had read before our trip about efforts to clean up the city and reduce the prevalence of street hawkers.  I believe they were enforcing a street-food-ban on Mondays, which is a day we didn't encounter at the front of the trip.  However, in August they tightened the screws on street vendors and intended to bar sidewalk-blockers every day outside the hours of 6pm-midnight.  On Sunday morning as we waited for our Ayutthaya bus we witnessed a troupe of sweepers in yellow "I love Khao San Road" tees giving the famous thoroughfare a good scrub down, complete with a crew of firehoses.  On Monday morning we noted the absence of our banana sticky rice and juice breakfast street vendors.  We had to pay retail prices for pre-packaged fruit in an actual shop!  Obviously there is not a lot of support for this prohibition from tourists or local entrepreneurs.  

Our last stop - one more fruit shake for the road.  We left the hotel at 11:30pm on Monday night.  Our flight was at 2:30am on Tuesday.  We arrived in Kalamazoo at 6:40pm on Tuesday evening.

SO LONG ASIA!  
ลาก่อน Thailand! 
lea hai Cambodia!
tam biet Vietnam!
la kon Laos!

And THANK YOU!
Kap Koon Ka
Arkoun
Cam On
Cop Jai

June 14, 2018

Setting Off: "SE Asia 2018" in BKK

When Jeff stopped working 9 to 5 last summer, we knew this summer would be ideal for a big trip.  Asia with the kids had always been on the list. When Babçia and Grandpa jumped on the bandwagon we began fine tuning an itinerary that would work for all parties.  Lonely Planets were bought, borrowed, and gifted and Jeff and Mom took on the majority of research.  We consulted YouTube to find out what street food got Mark Weins to make the best faces and how to spend $20 a day in any given city. The girls planned their budget for souvenirs, activities, and ice cream.  

We had been to Thailand and India (pre-children) in autumn 2004 and thought some familiarity would give us a modicum of comfort arriving in a foreign land.  Jeff and Mom sketched an itinerary that included starting in Bangkok and the beaches of Koh Chang; two places we'd been before.  The rest of the route was a flexible arc across Cambodia, Angkor Wat, diving locations, the Mekong Delta and some Vietnamese beaches.  We would part with the Boyans after 4 weeks and continue up to Hanoi and back or circle around through Laos back to BKK.  Even though we loosely followed a pre-imagined itinerary, most lodging and transportation was booked a week or less ahead of time.

We are travelling light, just one (large, school backpack size) bag for each of us and 1 extra daypack.  It worked out perfectly and we never felt deprived of wardrobe or accessories. In 2004, we carried towering frame packs.  This time we scoff at travellers we see in that position. We're kind of over buying tons of souvenirs, so as long as you manage your laundry schedule, a small bag is the way to go.  

STEP 1: Get to the other side of the world.
@ Chicago Ohare, 2nd of 4 airports encountered en route to Bangkok.  Our "cheap flight" took us on Qatar Air, which traversed the long way around the globe with a stop in Doha.
The girls on the 13-hour transatlantic leg:
Hour 00:00 - "OMG, this is the coolest plane ever!"
(complimentary swag bag, personal TVs, video games, and food service)
Hour 01:30 - "OMG - so much food we cant even finish!"
Hour 03:00 (midnight our home time) - Maya is able to conk out. Genna is in tears, how will she survive this flight length?
Hour 04:00 - Genna's asleep
Hour 06:00 - Maya discovers the Trip-route feature of the TV, "We're only halfway!!!!!????"
Hour 10:00 - Genna woke up to discover she missed ice-cream service

We have the good fortune to be traveling with the Boyan Grandparents for the first 4 weeks of the journey. We met up in Chicago to embark together. Our first perk of family travel is they sat with the girls on the 2nd flight (7 hours) so Jeff and I actually got some sleep.

We arrived in Bangkok at 7:00am, 2 days later, having lost a day to time zones. An early arrival means that we have an ENTIRE busy day ahead of us before bedtime.


Khao San Road


We pre-booked a hotel (with airport pick up) near the famous traveller's hub of Khao San Road.  (Rambuttri Village Inn on a quieter side street).  Yes, the discerning traveller may poo-poo this backpacker mecca, but it fits the bill for being close to major attractions (walk to Grand Palace and Wat Pho).  Plus, you can conveniently arrange onward travel and tours from here (our top priority in the 1st few days).   I do admit we started our pilgrimage with some generic pad thai on the street the first day.  The rest of the day, the girls enjoyed the roof-top pool and explored shopping opportunities.

It was also decided that we would skip Koh Chang and find some Cambodian Beaches further down the line.  Summer is not the best time for diving near Koh Chang, so we hoped that it was a legitimate reason to skip it.  The direct route from Bangkok to Siem Reap makes more sense than going down to the islands and then back up.  This would mean that the Boyans missed out on having much Thai-time. 



Day 2
Stop #1: the Grand Palace
FYI - this place does enforce the strictest dress code we encountered.  Pants must be long.  Capris are not pants!  Leggings are not pants! (unless you're a "baby" ~ Genna).
It was vastly more crowded than we recall from 14 years ago.


Stop #2: Wat Pho
The Buddha is still reclining.
While waiting for Grandpa, Babcia, and Papa to have massages at the Wat Pho school, Genna contemplates yoga.
Practicing temple etiquette.


Find shade!  June is VERY HOT!



November 26, 2004

E-mails from 2004 Trip (last leg, part 3)

TO: Everyone 
DATE: Nov 26, 2004
Imagine this.............
You are on a snorkel-trip in the Andaman Sea.  The boat pulls up to the 3rd island on the tour..... about 2 miles long and 1/2 mile wide.   No beaches - just 100-200 ft cliffs topped with tropical foliage.
You don flippers and jump in.  The guide points to a dark hole in the cliff at sea level and says "now we go to Emerald Cave."  Single file, following 1 guide who has 1 waterproof flashlight, you enter the 10 ft wide opening.  Looking down as the last rays of light filter into the cave, you can see schools of fish swimming below us in the 20 ft deep water.
You keep swimming - not knowing what to expect - hoping not to loose the light.  Blindly following the guide, you "s" curve your way through the 240 ft tunnel.  At times when the guide and his light are too far ahead - you are in the complete DARK.  You are convinced that a "darkness monster" is going to bite your legs off.
Just when you're at wits end you see a little light.  A few more yards and you finally see the namesake emerald water.  RELIEF!
As you come out you are greeted by the most incredible sight - the cave opens up into a small hidden lagoon.  On one end - the cave you've just emerged from, the other a narrow beach..... all hemmed in by 150 foot sheer cliffs.  The only way out is the way you've come.  
It is hard to describe and difficult to believe unless you've seen it.  Since we could not swim our camera through the hole (we have no proof!)- you'll have to come see it for yourself.
Regards, 
Jeff

________________________________________

TO: Mike Glista 
DATE: Nov 26, 2004
Hi Mike 
 We spent Loy Kratong in Koh Phi Phi Don........ weren't the floats beautiful and intricate!
What part of southern Thialand are you going to? (I ask now, relizing that you mentioned you are out of e-contact for a while)........but anyways.............
we have been thinking about you.  It sems like a long time since we were in Chiang Mai - we hoped you would get chances to see more of the south.  We enjoyed the islands immensely!  Now we only have 2 more days in Bangkok (for some serious shopping).  Then Hong Kong - and we'll be back next week.  
Hope you get to enjoy the holidays in a unique way!
Much Love, 
Becky & Jeff
________________________________________

TO: Everyone 
DATE: Dec 10, 2004
Greetings from the top of Hong Kong.  We are on The Peak and are taking advantage of free (rare) internet at a coffee shop.
Prior to arriving, we had been viewing Hong Kong as an expensive, work intensive stopover.....but as it turns out it is a great city.  It is very modern, clean, metropolitan, and easy to navigate.   And - they really have the city decked out in Christmas decorations and festivities.  It makes us remeber what time of year it is.  
We will be home soon (4 days) and look forward to seeing many of you in due time.  Hope you are enjoying winter.  For the first time in a long time, last night we were CHILLY.  
Much Love, 
Becky & Jeff

September 25, 2004

E-mails from 2004 Trip (Thailand part 1)

TO: family
DATE: Sep 25, 2004

Here is our general itinerary.  Although I've listed dates - they are mostly tentative and not specific.
Don't worry - we'll be fine.
Sep 25:  leave PHX @ 7:30pm (stop in LA and Hong Kong)
Sep 27:  arrive in Bangkok @ 10:30am
Sep 27-30:  Bangkok
Oct 1:  Arrive in Chiang Mai (where Mike Glista is)
Oct 1-9: Northern and Central Thailand
Oct 10-17:  Ko Chang (island southwest of Bangkok)
Oct 18: Fly from Bangkok to Calcutta (India)
Oct 18-22:  Calcutta
Oct 23-26:  Darjeeling
Oct 27-Nov 1:  Patna, Gaya, Bohdgaya
Nov 2-8:  Varnassi
Nov 9-15:  Ranchi (SRF Ashram ~ Jeff Church)
Nov 16-21:  Orissa
Nov 23:  Return Flight from Calcutta to Bangkok
Nov 24 -Dec 9:  Thailand Isthmus Beaches (Andaman Coast, Phuket, Krabi)
Dec 10:  Flight from Bangkok to Hong Kong
Dec 10-14:  Hong Kong
Dec 14:  Leave Hong Kong, arrive in Phoenix @ 4:30 pm


P.S.  we have given our cell phone to Courtney now  - so that is no longer our number. 

__________________________________________

TO: family
DATE: Sep 25, 2004
We arrived safely.  What a long flight.  The flowers are nice, humidity is high, and we are very tired.  The culture shock will take some getting used too, but I am sure it will be much easier when we are in smaller towns or at the beach.  
I am too tired to compose much - we haven't done anything today except purchase our India airfare.
MORE LATER.........for now, no worries!
LOVE, 
Becky and Jeff

__________________________________________

TO: family
DATE: Sep 29, 2004
just to prove we are still doing fine - - - and that communication (via e-mail) will be pretty easy and available.  The e-mail will be much more frequent than phone calls because it is cheap - and especially because the phones are much harder to figure out.
Tomorrow we leave Bangkok for the north, Chiang Mai (Where Mike Glista is).  We'll send a mass e-mal out next week when I have more time to write and some good stories.  tomorrow we are going to TRY to go to the Thai Open (tennis) - that happens to be in BKK this week.  Perhaps we'll see Roddick and Federer and?????????????
Have a good weekend!
Love, Becky and Jeff

__________________________________________

TO: family
DATE: Oct 3, 2004
we are in northern thailand this week.  tomorrow we are going on a 3 day 2 night trek to a national park (Doi Ithalon) that has the highest mtn in the country.  We will also be visiting some hill tribes, going rafting on bamboo flats, and riding an elephant.  Should be fun.  When we get back I'll send a report.  We have arranged the trek through the "Hollanda Montri House"......... in case you need to know.  If you look them up on the WEB - you can see where we are going.  do a Google search -or-
all is going well.  we are into the swing of travelling now and things are not as frustrating.  we see MANY families travelling with small children.... I think that shows it is very safe here.  the thai people are very friendly and respectful.  
we saw mike glista on friday night.  He said he is unsure if marty and sandy will come or not.  Mom B - you should encourage them not to miss the opportunity to travel here.  But tell them to stay for more than a week so the LONG flight is worthwhile.
we miss you - and send love, 
Becky and Jeff

________________________________________
TO: Everyone
DATE: Oct 6, 2004
Hello All -
Our first week in Thailand has been great.  We started out in Bangkok for 4 days.  It is a big, crowded, hot metropolis, ...but was not as unbearable as I imagined.  There are many beautiful temples in the old part of the city.  We were fortunate to be there during the Thailand Open (tennis).  WE got tickets to see some 2nd round play, including Federer (#1 in the world) - Roddick was also at the tournament but did not play while we were there (Federer went on to win).
Since Friday we have been in CHiang Mai (Northern Thailand).  Our cousin Mike is here studying at the university - and it was a treat to meet up with him, albeit briefly.  The past 3 days we trekked through Doi Inthanon National Park.  That was a great experience.  We visited a few hill tribes and camped (in bungalows) in their villages.  It was so cheap ($12/day) and the guides provided and prepared all our meals.  We swam at a few waterfalls, rode elephants, and went rafting on bamboo flats.  We were in a small group and met some cool travelers from Canada, Yorkshire, Belgium, Portugal, and LA.  The guy from LA was wearing a John Kerry shirt.... you will be proud that Jeff did not say anything to him about it!!!
A highlight in Chiang Mai has been the flower market.  We saw so many orchids, and could not pass up a beautiful $3 specimen that would easily be $30+ at home.  We hung it in our room and left it for the hotel.  None of the wild orchids we saw on the trek were in bloom - but there were thousands in the trees.  
Tomorrow I am attending a Thai Cooking class all day (while Jeff does laundry and gets a Thai massage).  Thursday night we leave for Ko Chang, an island in the Gulf of Thailand nearer to the Cambodia border.  We have heard great things about the snorkeling there and cannot wait to see for ourselves.   High tourist season has not started yet so we may have some beaches to ourselves.
Dad told us about Mt St Helen's......... sounds intriguing - I hope Lisa is out of harms way.  We must have seen it just in time this summer!
Hope all is well - We'll be in touch before heading to India on the 18th.
Much Love, 
Becky and Jeff
__________________________________________
TO: dad Carroll
DATE: Oct 11, 2004
Tell Grandma hello and that we are have safe fun.  We went on 4 island snorkel tour today. Becky is abit ill.  We think it is temporary. There is a hospital not 2 b;ocks away should you be wondering. Congratulations on the PC ring of Honor we too wish we could be there. Thanks for the updates. Got to run. Love you all. I check our banks and everything is fine.
~Jeff
__________________________________________
TO: Boyans
DATE: Oct 11, 2004
Greetings From Jeff (only):
I am checking our mail while waiting on a pizza after an all day four island snorkeling adventure (for only $12 per person). THanks for the update on India. I am also keeping tabs on the regions we are headed to. I will inquire and register at the US consulate in Calcutta when we arrive on the eighteenth. So far Thailand has been safer, easier and less expensive than anticipated. I will tell Becky of you email. Love always, Jeff 
__________________________________________
TO: Uncle Keith
DATE: Oct 11, 2004
__________________________
TO: everyone
DATE: Oct 14, 2004
This week has been all about the BEACH.  We are on Ko Chang Island in the Gulf of Thailand.  The first bungalow we stayed at was about 30 feet from the shore (10 feet during high tide).  It has a kind of Reggae vibe that seems to be internationally found at beach-type-getaways.  After a few days we moved down the coast a bit to a quieter area.  Today is our last night and we splurged on a nicer hotel with hot water and A/C so we can recoup from our sun burns in relative comfort before we head back to the mainland.
On Monday we took a snorkel outing that took us to 4 small islands south of this one.  The water is beautiful and so warm.  The snorkeling was not as crystal clear as some Caribbean locations.... but is was great anyways.  
The beach at our bungalow is perfect for swimming.  The water has been so calm and surprisingly wave-less the past 2 days.  Wednesday I floated around for most of the day (hence the sunburn).
Tomorrow we are heading to Trat, en route to Bangkok.  Monday we leave for India.
We miss you all!  
Love, Becky and Jeff

__________________________
TO: Mom Carroll
DATE: Oct 17, 2004
Thanks for the updates. It is funny you wrote because last night we ran into the silver area (92.5% quality)  Seems fairly priced.  We will look upon our return.  Give a few more details.  Want any jewels or and other design requests. We will do our best and also be looking in India.  Please have Cork and you write with her American and UK (Birk) shoe sizes.  THe fake Birks here are only $5. Yes we both have been sick already.  Becky for one day last week, and myself since Thursday. THe runs have almost vanished and my stomach gurgles have almost gone.  I spoke with aEnglish speaking Thai pharmasists who was very helpfull.  He confirmed the appropriate antibiotics we had already been recommended back home.  I opted for electrolite packets and tons of water. It has worked.  I wanted to save the meds for when I have a problem that persists.  But the meds are very cheap and easily attainable so be sure that I will use them and seek medical attention if needed.  Today is Sunday 5p and we fly to Calcutta next Monday at 2p. We will write in few days when things settle back down in our lives. If you send Jim, Arnie and Andi's email we can add them to our list. I am paying for this internet so no spell check, and I LOVE YOU VERY MUCH and AM HAVE A FUN SAVE TIME. Please update Dad.

__________________________
TO: Lisa and Melanie
DATE: Oct 17, 2004
Hi Girls - 
Our time in Thailand has been smooth. Before the whole trip I was kind of dreading the "work" of traveling in a foreign country......where we were gong to be totally unfamiliar with the language and culture...... But to my happy surprise, Thailand has been much easier than expected and we got into the swing of things right off the bat. 
Nonetheless, a few things have been trying..... like in Bangkok - we learned that many of the taxi drivers not only do not SPEAK English - they cannot read English (roman script) ..... because Thai has its own script.... which is more like Arabic squiggles than Chinese characters. Also the tones of the language are very specific so if you do not pronounce your destination correctly - they still do not know where you want to go!
Also they are not too concerned about tripping hazards around here. In America the ADA would be all over them! There are so many uneven walking surfaces - it is kind of funny to compare it with our sidewalks and public spaces. Much to Jeff's dismay - they also have low clearance through a lot of doorways and just walking down the street. He hits his hear HARD a couple times a week.
The shopping here is incredible. There are many temptations - but we are trying to hold off until the end so we do not have to carry a lot. We still have 9 weeks to go! 
I have been most surprised by the food - not that I discovered I love it - but the fact that I am already kind of sick of it. I have been craving pizza because they don't really use much bread or cheese around here (unlike Europe travel where you can live off baguettes). Thai food is actually very sweet. They use a ton of sugar in many dishes and always have sugar on the table as a condiment (for the food, not your coffee). It can be very spicy - but they always make a point of toning it down for FARANGS (foreigners). But the cooking class I had was pretty fun and I did learn some techniques to take home. Jeff and I both got a little sick last week - but nothing major yet!!!!
I hope you are having a great autumn. They do not have words for our seasons here. They only have WET, HOT, and COOL....... no summer, spring, winter, fall.
I am having similar apprehension about India (we leave tomorrow for Calcutta). Btu I am guessing my fears will dissolve once we get there and GET GOING.
I miss you! Love, Becky